Squad Formations: Pros and Cons

Alright, squad formations can be a big help or hindrance to any table.  One of the big things that a lot of starting players will do is just toss their squads on the board.  Or they put them on in big square formations, or a line, to prevent blasts from impacting them.  This is a bad idea for reasons in which I will get to later.  For now, I will focus on three basic formations, the Staggered Front, Staggered Column, and Wedge. For unit placement, blue represents a squad leader/special character/sergeant.  Red is assault weapon, Grey is heavy weapon. FYI: the circles are 35mm in diameter, the lines are 2" (roughly).  So this is to scale.

The Staggered Front:

Strengths: 
This model has a strong front.  The heavy weapon is centrally located to allow maximum range in every direction, and located in the rear to protect it from first turn assault. The assault weapon is located in front next to the leader to get the most of its shorter range. Units assaulting it directly will have to assault multiple units, the leader among them, most likely the whole squad.

Weaknesses:
This is weak from the sides, as an assaulting unit can simply charge into only a couple of models, which would allow them to kill a couple off and not allow a retaliation until you charge next turn.  This may not seem like much, but it can be when you're dealing with multiple threats on an objective, especially if the unit is being assaulted from multiple units.  Also, maneuverability is an issue.  The wide setup makes it harder to move around or between terrain, slowing them down to get to the objective.

The Staggered Column:

Strengths:
This formation is maneuverable, as it's thin front allows it to more easily move around and in between terrain.  The leader in front also acts as a small deterrent against frontal assaults, and, again, the heavy weapon and assault weapons centrally and forward located for the same reason as the last.

Weaknesses:
This unit lacks the strong, unified front of the last, preventing you from maximizing the squad's number of shots, and forcing you to assault sideways.  This would work well when it moves next to a staggered front unit, as you can assault (or be assaulted) with the staggered front, and flank with the column.  Also, as the front was weak from the sides, this is weak from the front and back. As stated, the leader up front acts as deterrent, but not much of one, and if he is killed in assault, you are now down with your best assault unit and down 1 point of Leadership.

Wedge:

Strengths:
This unit is my favorite, because it's the all around powerhouse.  Not as maneuverable as the Column but moreso than the Front (much more so). All-around well defended, and able to provide a decent 360 degree firebase, it can assault easily in 180 degrees, while being well defended from the front and sides, and only slightly weaker from the rear.

Weaknesses:
It's not as good at any specific task than the previous units.  If attacked from the rear, it will take a while to counter with your best units.  Aside from that, it's fairly solid.

Note on larger or smaller units:
The pictures above use 10-man squads, as that's what most armies are based on.  For using larger squads, add to the end, or add an additional parallel column, or row.  Or both, if it's large enough.  I don't recommend using more than 3 columns or rows.  For the wedge, the green chevrons represent the lines of the "wedge," and add additional chevrons of troops.  I don't recommend a chevron of over 5 models, as you start losing the inherent mobility.

Why should I use these staggered formations instead of a single line or block formations?
I will start with the block formations.  I have a cool image for that. And the answer is blast diameters. Let me demonstrate.  As before everything is to scale.

Just so you know, the red dotted circle is the 3" blast diameter, and grey circles are models hit.  While The most you can hit in the staggered formation is 3, the maximum in the block formation is 4.  Now, given, this has to be a precise shot, but you don't want to take that chance.  Also note that if you move the circle left or down by just 1 inch in the staggered formation, you will only hit one model, whereas if you move the diameter just about any direction on the block, you will still hit 2.  Basically, using a staggered formation decreases the maximum number of possible hits, while decreasing the likelihood of getting 2 hits with a blast.
As far as the line goes, a well-targeted assault that takes out a middle model or a special ability that allows the opponent to pick the target allows you to separate the squad and break unit coherency very easily.  The staggered formation is much more structurally sound.

This concludes my foray into unit formations.  My next step will be multiple unit formations.  Till next week...

Legend

This post is going to just have the legend that I will use for maps/movements/whatever when I post in the future.  There will be a link to this page so no matter what it can be viewed.

These unit symbols may be combined in order to create more detailed information about the units.
A vertical line along the left hand side of the infantry/armored symbol means the unit is mounted inside the vehicle.

So, there you have it.

Some things to keep in mind...

Still learning Gimp.  It's a lot less user friendly than Photoshop was, but, then again, I like the whole "free" thing.

Anyways, I'm devoting this post to a few things that I learned over the years, and are acronyms used in the real military, and will help you during game set-up.  The first is commonly referred to as "Sergeant Major Eats Sugar Cookies," but it stands for Situation, Mission, Execution, Service and Support, and Command and Signal.  This breaks down for your whole army deployment, the following way:

Situation: as I said previously, really look at the terrain, how it's set up, and start figuring out how to set your guys up so it protects them and doesn't hinder their movement.

Mission: What are your objectives?  This can change how you want to set your guys up drastically.

Execution: How do you want to achieve the mission?  You should have a plan of everything from movement to taking the objective to the end turn of the game planned out when you deploy.  This being said, use this as a rough draft.  If you take objective A, your opponent will try to take it back.  How are you going to deal with it?  How are you going to take it in the first place?

Service and Support:  How are your anti-tank/crowd control units deployed?  Do they have clear LOS? Are they in cover? Will they be able to shoot effectively at enemies attacking your objective takers/holders?  What about buffing units?  Officers? Are they within good range to get the most out of their abilities? Are they going to give adequate support?

Command and Signal: This I reserve for your reserve units/infiltrating units.  Are your infiltrators stranded in the middle of enemy territory, or are you going to be able to support them?  Where do you want to deep strike/flank with your reserves?  You should have this clearly in mind at the beginning, going into the execution mission, where can you drop/deploy them so that they best support your existing units?  Have a list of places, that way the scatter/outflank dice won't hurt too bad.

The other thing I want to clarify is for individual unit placement.  This acronym is OCOKA.  This can apply, not only to setup, but also throughout the game.

Observation/Field of Fire:  Make sure you have a good LOS and can react/shoot clearly at approaching targets.  You want to make sure that any enemies left in the open can be quickly mowed down.

Cover and Concealment: What's your cover save/when your opponent moves, will he get a clear shot at your squad?

Obstacles: Ranged units: make sure there's something your opponent has to move around to assault you.
Assault units: make sure there's nothing to go through to assault your opponent.

Key Terrain: How are your units situated around objectives?  If they are on the objective, can they defend it and still follow the rest of the rules?

Avenues of Approach: How can enemies get to your units, and how can your units get out of dodge?  A tactical retreat can be necessary, and knowing these lanes of movements may save your squad.

So, yeah... hope that stuff helps.  Just little things like that, when you set up and move your armies, keep them in mind.  Basically, you want to be able to move freely and attack anything you want, while making sure your opponent can attack nothing. Next week I may go more into detail about how to use individual types of units, or start going into other tactics.  It depends on how comfortable I am with Gimp by then.  So, yeah, see you then.

Some miscellaneous things...

Alright, before I get into advanced things, I need to learn to use gimp a bit better (I kind of need to make images to demonstrate some things I have to say).  So, for now, leaving these arguments:


Mechanized vs Light:
Before I begin this rant, I need to clarify that Space Marine Drop Pod and armies I classify as "Mechanized," and you will see why in a moment.

Mechanized Armies use vehicles and armor to bring their troops to the front.  Light armies use base troop movements (in the actual services known as Leather Personnel Carriers), as well as dropping them in via deep strike or by Valkyries or other methods, where once the troops are on or near the objective, there is no need for the vehicle to stay, if there is a vehicle model on the board at all.
Both Armies have their strengths and weaknesses, and I will demonstrate that here.

Mechanized Armies allow your troops to get to the objective much, much faster, as well as giving your squads protection, firing platforms (firing points), and support by fire.  The downside is points cost.  In some cases this is worse than others.  For example, a Space Marine Rhino or Drop Pod costs 35 points base.  A squad costs roughly in the vicinity of 150+ points, so this is not so bad.  You are sacrificing some points that could be used for Support units or upgrades, but in the scheme of things, having 3 units of Space Marines delivered (relatively) harmlessly to the objective/within range of your opponent.  In an Imperial Guard army, a Chimera costs 65 points.  Granted, you're getting a lot more than a Rhino, but most troops squads cost about 50 points.  Depending on how you wish to field your army, that can add up very quickly, and prevent you from playing some things you want.  Also take note that there are several vehicles in the game that do not have firing points, making deploying your troops from them essential to maximize your firepower (Just do a google search for Fish of Fury). All that being said, you can still move most vehicles up to 6" and still fire one main gun and anything under Str 5 at your enemy, so they can also give you a much better movement and shooting phase overall.  I count the space marine drop pod in this because of the extra points (1), and the fact that it can still create an obstacle and support by fire for your units.

Light armies rely on troops for movement, or Deep Strike, or, generally, anything that gets them there and leaves them there.  The strength here is in numbers.  Now, while the numbers on the Space Marines is not all that impressive, there is another factor to consider.  If you want to add an individual character to your Rhino, you need to remove a model from your squad to fit him.  Which, in turn, can seriously adjust how said unit is set up.  There are upgrades that only work if there are 10 models in the squad, and removing them changes your squad's overall  flexibility.  And as far as imperial guard goes, those 65 points can do a lot with them.  (that's 13 grenade launchers right there).  To give a most extreme example, myself and a couple of friends theorized about taking no upgrades and just maxing out on units for an IG army.  The end result is 1 company command squad, 4 platoons with 1 platoon command squad, 4 infantry squads and one full conscript unit, and 1 platoon with just 1 command squad and 4 infantry squads.  At 2,000 points that gives you 30 squads and 430 individual models on the board, which, despite the fact that there is no specialized units or anti-..., well, anything, you make up for that with sheer numbers.  Yes, they killed your squad.  you only have 29 more where that came from. Now, that is not a tournament-playable army, as almost half of it is conscripts, but it still would be a tough army to face.

Conclusion: Mechanized armies provide protection and a little extra fire, Light armies provide numbers and extra upgrades.  I'm not telling you one is better than the other, just highlighting the pros and cons of either side.

Reserves vs Troops on Table:

Before I begin, I would like to illustrate the points that I, personally, do not like to use reserves, and when I speak of reserves, I speak of those that can either outflank or deep strike.  That being said, I understand why someone would use them, and why they are beneficial.

Reserves are placed outside of play, and come into play at a later point in the game.  The reason using them is a boon is that you don't have to have your entire army set up, rigidly, at the beginning of the game.  It allows you to bring them in later, positioned as you wish, where you wish, etc., etc., and adapt easier to the ever-changing tabletop.

Troops on Table means just that: you play with all of your models on the board, from turn 0 onward.  This makes it harder to change tactics halfway through a game, but at the same time, the dice gods are fickle and cruel.  The reason I prefer this is for several reasons.  One, you cannot be sure when your troops will show up.  Two, you cannot always control entirely where they are placed.  When using Deep Strike, they can scatter into terrain or an enemy squad, when using Outflank, they can appear on a table edge you do not want them on.  This option allows it to be simple, straightforward, and stupid.  If at all possible, I prefer to prevent murphy's laws from impacting my games.

Conclusion: In the end, one allows you greater flexibility (which is always the best thing to have). And the other gives you dependability (which is also always the best thing to have).  Again, I am not telling you to take one or the other, just highlighting the pros and cons of both.

So, there you have it.  I'll figure something out, it may be a bit for my next post, as I have squads to paint, images to photoshop/gimp, but I will go into greater detail about how to use the different types of units that I discussed in the last rant.

Getting Started...

Alright, first post on my real purpose here. Let me get started by saying that Warhammer is a fun game, and should be treated as that: a game.  Whether you win or lose, what does it matter, as long as you had a good time, right?  Treat each game as that and a learning experience and you will play better each game.  Also, do not blame your opponent's victory that his army is broken, or cheap.  Every army is "broken" in its own way, it's up to you to figure out how best to exploit that.  Instead, whenever you lose (and you will), relish the game and figure out what you could have done better.  There's very little wrong things to do in the game, just some things are not as effective as others.  Now that my intro rant is complete, time to start the actual topic.

Step 1: Pick your army
When you pick your army, it should be something that speaks to your personality.  If you tend to use brute force and smash your way through problems, the tactics of the Eldar or Tau will be completely alien to you, and you will likely not play as well as a result.  I personally suggest if this is your first army, start with codex Space Marines.  This is because they have survivability, good attacking power, and otherwise are extremely tactically flexible and adaptable to almost any kind of play.  Another reason is that 4 out of 9 armies in the game use Imperial weapons, and odds are almost any given game is going to involve an army using Imperial weapons, so it's best to learn them early on.  Third, space marine armies are generally smaller, and easier to paint, so you can get out there faster and start playing earlier. Lastly, there aren't a lot of special rules or unit types that you have to learn to play them, you learn the basics, and can move up from there.
If you have been playing, and nothing seems to work with your army, before chalking it up to the dice gods, or other players for abusing the rules, take a look at how you play.  Record a game or two if need be.  It could be that your particular style is either not how you think it is, or you're not sure exactly how to translate it.  Figure out how it is you play, and find the army that best fits that.

Step 2: The unit types
I'm not referring to HQ, Troops, Fast Attack here, I'm talking about the battlefield role of said unit.  We know that this is Troops, but how does it get to the objective?  How does it deal with enemies?  What type of enemies is it best against?  These are the questions to ask yourself, and I have broken them down into some basic types for you:

• Objective Clearers: Objective clearers are units that cannot hold objectives themselves, but can eliminate enemy squads/hold off enemy squads in the time necessary for you to get to the objectives with your takers/holders.
• Objective Takers: Take the objective, and hold the line for your holders to come on place.  These are the guys you want there on turn 1 or 2.
• Objective Holders: Once the objective is taken, use your holders to keep a presence there for the rest of the game.  These are the guys you want there on 4+.  Some units can act as both takers and holders.
• Shock: Your dedicated assault units.  You use them for either counter-assaulting enemies attacking your objectives or striking at your enemies in assault to keep them from getting to your objectives. Note: a shock unit is usually specialized for either infantry or tanks.
• Crowd Control/Area Denial: Your long-range, heavy, anti-infantry units.  Use them to redirect your enemies, whittle down their numbers, and basically make your enemy change his movements.
• Anti-tank: Pretty self explanatory.
• Support: Any unit whose points cost goes to more than just a model and weapon on the table.  I.E., special characters, units with buffing abilities, etc.

As a sidenote, sometimes a unit may fall under multiple types, or have the ability to be specialized in one way or another.  Unless you can combat squad a unit, or do not have another choice, I believe in making sure a unit is dedicated towards one purpose, with defenses against other threats.

Step 3: Watch your points:
Most people who start the game young go through a "Timmy Power Gamer" period.  Avoid this.  I'm not saying you can't have an army with 1,500 points of Terminators, I'm saying that If you whittle your points away on upgrades and overpriced units, the next thing you know, you're playing with 3 squads, and your enemy simply sits back and let his massive army slowly grind yours to nothing with cheaper, more efficient equipment and choices.

Step 4: Read:
I know this is the boring part, but take a look at books on historical strategy and battles.  There's a reason Erwin Rommel, George Patton, Che Guevara, and Sun Tzu's books are still in print, and our current militaries still learn from their writings.  It won't make you a tactical genius overnight, but if you take the time to open your mind to what's in those books, it will help make you a better player.

Step 5: Learn to read your surroundings:
This one is kind of hard, and not something you get overnight.  It takes practice, but there is a lot to be said of this ability, both in the game and in your life.  Learn to read your opponent's reactions, how he approaches the tabletop and plays, and you can use that against him. Does he always Deep Strike his Terminators and immediately assault the enemy HQ?  Toss an additional shock unit or two close by, and as soon as they land, rush them. You get the idea.  The other idea, which is harder, is to read the terrain.  This goes more than setting your long range or poor close combat units on a hill.  Look at the table, and use the terrain against your opponents.  For example, if he fields his army with lots of close combat and very little long range, make sure your Crowd Control units are positioned around the deployment zone so that he can't just charge them through the open.  Make them slow down through Difficult terrain, and, even though they get cover saves, you can still slowly chip away at them as they try to trudge through it, and they'll emerge and assault in lower, more manageable numbers.  This last step, as I said, takes time, and patience, but can pay off more than the rest of this post combined.

Welcome to the suck...

Hello, and welcome to Tactica Imperialis.  This is a blog designed to discuss, review, and give insight on tactics in Warhammer 40,00 for the new players and players who just need a little help getting their army off the ground. My blogs are here and I will try to enter them weekly, going over tactics, strategies, and ideas for all the armies of the game.  Please avoid leaving rude/offensive comments/questions/advice, as I work really hard to keep my own comments clean, but if you have any, feel free to leave them.  I will try to answer them or respond to them as quickly as I can.  I will try to take an objective view of all armies, but no promises, as there are certain armies I just hate too much.  Thanks for reading, and I hope you enjoy.